Sewing tips: Sewing Machine Needles

When you sit down at your sewing machine, do you ever think about the needle that's in it? Maybe you've heard that you should change your needle out after X number of hours sewing, and you know that there are different types of needles. You've been at the craft store, and you've seen the quilting needles, the embroidery needles, the denim needles, the jersey needles...

Or, maybe you haven't. Maybe you've never changed your needle. Maybe you have, but you buy the universal 80/12 needles, because those are the most popular, and they always get the job done.

Needle Sizes

So what are the different needles and the different sizes? Let's start with the sizes. You'll usually see two numbers, such as 80/12. You'll notice they either both go up (such as 90/14) or down (such as 75/11). The first number is the European sizing, and the second is the American sizing (because us Americans, we just cannot handle that metric system!). When the numbers go up, the needle is bigger. When it goes down, it's smaller.

Generally speaking, bigger needles are better for projects with thicker fabrics, such as vinyl. Smaller needles are better for delicate fabrics, such as lace. 80/12 is the most common needle size you'll see, and it's perfect for fabrics like quilting cotton.

Needle Types

Needles for knit fabrics (usually called a jersey needle) have a rounded tip, so that it can slide through knit fabrics easier, without breaking the threads. Other needles, such as quilting needles, have a sharp tip, so they can get through the woven fabrics easier.

So what about universal needles? They are in between the two. The tip is not as rounded as a jersey needle, but it is a little rounded. Which, of course, means that it's not as sharp as something like a quilting needle.

What needle should I use?

The answer is going to depend on your project, of course. If you are sewing a bag with vinyl and lots of layers, you probably want a bigger needle, like a denim or leather needle at a 90/14 or even 100/16. If you are piecing a quilt top, you'll probably want to use an 80/12 quilting needle. If you are sewing a t-shirt, you'll probably want a 90/14 jersey needle.

You might be wondering about all those universal needles you have. When will you ever use those?

The proper answer is never. However, my answer is, whenever you are sewing a project where the needle type can be a little more flexible. Piecing a quilt top with lots of large squares? Use the universal needle, but switch it out to a quilting needle if you have lots of small pieces, where a tiny adjustment in the seam allowance can add up to big problems later. Fixing a hole in a t-shirt? Use the universal needle, but switch it to a jersey needle if you're sewing a swimsuit.

I hope this blog post was helpful for you! Do you have other questions about needles? Put them in the comments below!